We strive to release our untapped potential.
About Redpoint Performance
We know that we are strong today, but will be stronger tomorrow. We know we are capable of much more. Redpoint Performance was created to help athletes unlock what they are capable of achieving. We believe the secret to success is an unrelenting will to keep progressing. Regardless of how slow or little the progress occurs, progress means a step in the right direction. Progress means success.
We are only as strong as our weakest link. This link illuminates the short fall in our performance quality. Our strategy for progression, is to address one link at a time until the whole chain cooperates seamlessly, in a flawless performance.
Brief Climbing Resume
El Capitan via The Freerider, Salathe Wall, & The Nose
5.13 Trad Redpoint
5.13a Sport Onsight
Eiger solo in winter conditions via Mittellegi Ridge
Evolution Traverse Onsight Solo car to car
V10 in the Buttermilks
50 mile Ultra Marathons
Coach x Trainer
Robert Abbott
I grew up in San Diego, California, where athleticism and nature were significant influences in my upbringing. My father has been a lifelong surfer and taught me how to interact with the dynamic elements of nature and care for wild places. The drive to be an athlete brought me to my first major pursuit, gymnastics. I was on a competitive gymnast team for 8 years and traveled around the United States competing. Upon discovering rock climbing at the age of 13, I slowly transitioned from gymnastics to my newfound passion. My life began to revolve around climbing.
As my passion grew, I moved to South Lake Tahoe in 2012 to pursue climbing and a higher education. Tahoe was the perfect destination because of Lake Tahoe Community College (LTCC) and the world class granite. After a few years at LTCC, I transferred to Sierra Nevada University to get a bachelor’s degree in Outdoor Adventure Leadership and Psychology. After graduating I became a full time route setter for 4 years. After my route setting journey, I started working at Barton's Center for Orthopedics and Wellness as a Strength and Conditioning Coach. Within Barton’s integrated rehab facility, I work with pre and post physical therapy patients, competitive sports teams, and individual athletes. My wide range of experience has allowed me to fine tune what each individual needs in order to improve their athletic ability. My understanding of body movement and outdoor education provides an excellent platform to enable others to further their own skills while adventuring in the mountains. I have submerged myself in sports science, personal training classes, and human performance literature. I have been training as an athlete for the majority of my life and have been working with coaches for every athletic endeavor I have pursued. I know first hand the value that structured training and one-on-one coaching can provide. Redpoint Performance was created in the fall of 2019 to help share my passion, knowledge, and commitment to climbing progression.
I have traveled heavily in the western U.S. on climbing trips. Throughout my 17+ years of climbing I have climbed El Capitan via 3 different routes, sent 5.13a trad climbs and have redpointed 5.13 on granite, sandstone and limestone. I have bouldered V10. In the fall of 2017 my climbing partner and I climbed nearly 8,000 vertical feet at Lover’s Leap, ascending 21 different routes totaling 63 guide book pitches. I have soloed the east ridge of the Eiger in Switzerland. In 2022 I onsight soloed the Evolution Traverse in California, which contains 9 peaks over 13,000’ over 7 miles of 5th class terrain in under 28 hours car to car. I have always aimed to be a well rounded climber. This mindset allows me to understand many different climbing styles and rock types, soI can help athletes reach a diversity of goals. Improving athletic performance is what drives me.
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Sierra Nevada University
BA in Interdisciplinary Studies with a focus on Outdoor Adventure Leadership and Psychology
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Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist
National Strength and Conditioning Association (NSCA)
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Single Pitch Instructor (SPI)
American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA)
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Functional Movement Systems (FMS)
Level 1 & 2
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National Academy of Sports Medicine
Corrective Exercise Specialist (CES)
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USA Weightlifting
Level 1 & 2
Why we climb
Rock climbing tends to go from a hobby to a passion, to a lifestyle. It has been shown that even a minimal connection with nature will increase productivity and health.
Climbing ability relies on mental fortitude, technical ability and physical power. For the best performance to occur, all three elements must be relatively equal to one another. Redpoint Performance strives to find the weakest link within these three elements. This link is the first target on the road to improved performance. All coaching and training is specific to the individual. Additionally, all training exercises are scalable to fit the athletes needs and lifestyle. Once all performance elements are equal, the physical training can ramp up.
Climbing skill is developed through conscious movement and knowledgeable coaching. Physical power is developed through structured training. The best climbing performance will occur when these two elements intersect.
Mental fortitude
When working towards a goal one must learn new skills. In a way, all training is mental training because any skilled behavior is learned. Therefore, the process of training is the process of learning, or gaining knowledge through experience. When we are learning new mental techniques to control fear and anxiety on a climb, or how to engage our muscles at the right time in order to do a difficult move, we are programming our neurons in the brain. To achieve our ambitions, we must align our attention with our intention. This is our ability to perform.
Coaching provides guidance to allow for more rapid progress. Quality coaching allows an athlete to work in a more challenging environment due to the added support. This allows the athlete to rise to the challenge and adapt, eventually gain new skills. Some of the most critical skills and mental techniques include: 1. How to control your breathing pace and when to use a particular method of breathing. 2. Assessing the risk versus consequence of a fall and how to incrementally overcome the fear. 3. Strategies for entering the “zone” or “flow state” to allow for more efficient movement.
Technical ability
Rock climbing is a skill sport. Climbing specific exercises or drills such as bouldering, top-roping, and any time spent on the wall are the most important part of the overall training concept. It is easiest to think of skill work as time spent with climbing shoes on. The other part of training is isolationing specific muscle groups or movements patterns. This could be hangboarding for finger strength, campusing for power, weight lifting, or resistance training. These non-climbing aspects of performance are all done without wearing climbing shoes. The more novice the climber, the more important it is to focus on time spent climbing in order to improve skill and movement patterns,rather than trying to increase their maximum strength. It doesn’t matter how strong an athlete is, if they don’t know how to move on the rock. Some of the technical skills that are targeted include: 1. Understanding the relationship between your center of gravity and your base of support in order to find optimum balance. 2. Learning how to read the rock and comprehend the relationship between hand position, foot placement and movement. 3. How and when to adjust the pace of climbing to be more effective when resting or when trying to make it through the crux.
Physical power
As skill based movements and techniques begin to plateau, physical power begins to be an important factor. It becomes important to focus on weaknesses, such as finger strength, core, and raw power. Developing strength allows the climber to grab more difficult holds and utilize strenuous body positions that are required for movement. As strength improves, holds become easier to grasp, forearms become less pumped and moves become easier. Strength and power are the foundation for all movement. The more stable the foundation is, the more impressive the building can be on top.